Installing Kellerman Bar End Signals
I didn’t see any thing in the forum on this subject so I figured I make the best of it…
Most will agree that the stock turn signals are a bit bulky and many have replaced or modified them in some manor. Another problem is the rear signals mount directly to that ugly fender. Obviously, this limits fender modification. I decided to try a set of Kellermann BL-1000 brass bar end turn signals from wild hair accessories. If all goes well I will remove the factory turn signals for a cleaner look.
The quality of kellermann products is excellent, but for the price they better be…on sale they cost me $160 including shipping. Unfortunately they were out of stock and I had to wait nearly seven weeks for them. They mount amazingly solid for a just friction mount!
A piece of plastic from the control box sticks into each of the holes in the bars and restricts rotating movement. I made the mistake of drilling the holes in the wrong spot on the bench, so my new bars have a few extra holes!
The factory bars have welded caps on the ends and require modification to work with the new signals.
A set of $15 Bike Master superbike bars were a cheap fix and allowed me to revert to the stock setup if necessary.
Removing the stock bar ends has been discussed in other posts but I will give it a rehash… the Big K uses heavy duty locktite on these suckers. An impact wrench is required if you do not wish to heat the end of the bar. In my first attempt I used a manual impact driver and broke the bit….so out came the pneumatics.
Here are the new bars. They are about 1” lower and at least an inch wider. Things get a little tight
with the hydraulic lines form the clutch and front brake...
Finding power…positive wires for the directionals (green & gray) can be taped from the controls. I
made yet another hole underneath the directional control box to pass the leads to the new units.
did not want to cut the wires to splice into them, so I stripped the insulation off and soldered the
new leads. The area of the splice was very tight especially with the additional wires. Electrical tape would have made things tighter so I
Using toughened gap filling Loctite adhesive I coated the soldered area. This left a nice plastic
coating over the splice.
I ran the ground wire down the wiring harness and attached it under the tank so no extra wiring can
be seen when all is back together.
Testing the first light…it actually works!
This is the view from the back!
Here is every thing back together.
The new lights are very bright but because of the smaller lenses the light is more directed. The
paperwork states the lites are ECE approved, what ever this means…. It must be some European standard. They do not have a DOT stamped into
the lens so inspections may require some fast talking. The guy I go to is usually laxed on stuff like this.
Now on to removing the existing directionals!