Many members have installed water temperature gauges. Here is a sampling of what they have done.

From RedRex02

I used a AutoMeter electric temp gauge, I did not replace the thermostat housing, just unscrew the orig. sensor and screwing the one that comes with the gauge, this can be found at most automotive parts stores

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From Houston-Steve

I purchased the ZX11 neck with the two taps for temperature probes. I wanted to hook up an analog water temperature gauge, but keep my stock warning light active as well. I haven't installed it yet. I've been waiting for the next time I have the tank off to install it.

As Rick61 says it comes from the ZX11 and is supposed to be a bolt on replacement. The ZX11 has both a warning light, and a temperature gauge.

The part # for the Thermostat body is 16160-1117, Body Thermostat, LWR. You also need an O ring gasket, part # 92055-112 "O" Ring, 53, 5MM. The caveat with the water neck is that the two holes are different sizes. This means the temperature probes will be different sizes. I haven't checked out any gauges yet to see what different sizes the sender / probes are.

TIP: From Houston-Steve, my 2001 ZRX1200 has the ZX11 Water neck with the two taps already on it. I bought my bike new, so this came from the factory. In other words, I'll bet if you have a 2001 or a 2002 ZRX, I'll bet it already has the water neck with the second tap on it. The 2nd tap has a plug screwed into it. It's worth checking before purchasing the ZX11 water neck.

Update: When I first got my bike in 2002, I read that the ZX11's had taps for sending units, 1 for gauge, 1 for analog. I looked at the parts diagram on and found and ordered the 1999 ZX-11 water neck. It arrived and has two taps, though both aren't the same size.

When I took my tank off to install the new ZX-11 water neck, it turns out that my water neck on my 2001 ZRX is identical. I looked through the manual, and the extra tap is for bleeding purposes.

Unless there is another water neck for another year of ZX-11, the rumor that the ZX-11 neck isn't true. I have heard that people have used the bleeding tap hole for another temp tap, but it will have to be machined to fit a 1/8" NPT.


Lloyd and I ordered the Daytona Digital Temp gauges.
Lloyd installed his as a Water temp gauge and I used mine for Oil Temperature. The Auto Meter analog gauge has been my primary means for monitoring water temp since I first bought the REX.

First, the Water temperature gauge is from Auto Meter. The Auto Meter Part # is 4737.

The location where these gauges get there heat signal is at the stock thermostat housing... However, mine and Lloyd's are no longer stock. Most heat sending units utilize an 1/8" pipe thread sender fitting, which is the case with ours. The picture below depicts where I have modified the sender by welding an additional aluminum bung on the crown of the housing and then tapped the additional hole in 1/8th pipe. On my ZRX, I placed the Auto Meter sender in the added hole and the original Kawasaki temp sender remains in its stock location. This allows the original equipment idiot light to remain functional.

My Daytona Digital gauge has its sender in the side of the Oil Pan, where I found an 1/8th pipe plug... Removed it from the left side of the oil pan, under the motor inboard below the oil pressure sender, or in below the water pump location. The plug was a hex style 1/8th pipe plug. Oil wanted to run out freely when I removed the plug, telling me that I had an oil sump source.

Installing the VDO temp guage from Murphyau

VDO #323-095 "Temperature Sender: 250F/120C - 1/8-27 NPT

I drained about 350 ml (1.5 cups) of coolant and removed the thermostat housing ( 2 hose clamps ad 1 bolt), I then removed the thermostat (4 screws) and had a look inside to see what was blocking the VDO sensor. What I found on mine unit, and I suspect it is the same on yours, is that the sensor hole is tapped with a slight taper. i.e... the outside hole is slightly larger than the inside hole and the VDO sensor is hitting the threads about 2/3 way in.

I did not have a 1/8 NPT tap so I used a small round file and carefully "clean up" the tops of the inside threads and then used some emery cloth to sand down the end of the VDO sensor. It only requires a very little amount of metal to be removed before the VDO sensor will screw the way in properly.

Then its just a matter of re-fitting the thermostat (with the small hole positioned at the top) and re-fitting the housing back into the hoses. I just topped up the coolant with the cupful I removed initially. ( I did add maybe 1/4 cup of distilled water to make up the small amount lost in bleeding the thermostat housing

I did run a separate ground wire from the gauge back to the bike frame. I used the bolt that mounts the thermostat housing to the frame. I just removed some paint off the frame from under the bolt head. I figured that if VDO were making special mention of this requirement, I might as well follow their advice.

I used a separate ground to the actual gauge, but spliced into the Black/Yellow wire for the ground for the gauge light.

I spliced into the Red/Blue wire in the 9 pin Instrument connector for the power. This is the wire that powers all the other Instrument lights.

From Kwick

The Yoshimura Temp gauge/clock/voltmeter sensor screws in the exact hole the stocker comes out of. you have to call them on this one. It's a "race kit" part, #R-426. It's not listed as fitting a ZRX, but in Europe/Japan it is. Ask for one for a ZX11D, same sensor. Yosh distributors do NOT carry it, it has to be ordered direct.

Retail was $170.00 if I remember right.

You can program the high and lo temp warnings, switch between clock and High temp for the ride, etc.

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From Wekoli

I went to a Hot Rod shop and got the Autometer Water Temp Gauge. It was the one with black face, white letters, chrome brezel. $54.00. I got the chrome housing, $35.00. With what I spent, I should have gotten the VDO Gauge! But all in all. It looks nice. Didn't get a chance to see if I got the wires correct. I turn the key on and it lights up.

This is the 2 1/16 gauge. I used the pod and it did come with the bracket, but it sat to high and I couldn't put my windscreen back on. So right now, it's just secured by small strips of 3M double back tape.

From Uncle Bob ZRX

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Q: Is your water gauge mounted to the fairing brace? How?
A: I made a bracket that mounts it to the headlight bolt.

Q: With only one point of attachment (headlight bolt), what did you make it out of to keep it from vibrating?
A: Its a pretty snug fit, partially resting on the sub frame and instrument cluster.....there's not much worry about it moving around. I used the bracket it comes with (thin piece of aluminum) and rebent and drilled it as necessary.

Q: As I understand it, when the water temp switch closes, it supplies the earth connection to the Y/W lead from the temp lamp. So, I was thinking of splicing the Y/W lead to the BL/BK power lead going into the Fan Switch. This way, when the Fan switch closes, it supplies an earth connection thru the fan for the lamp. Is this how you did it or is there another way ??
A: you have to take the gauge apart, cut and splice the brown wire going to the light and solder it to any black/yellow wire under the cover. Then at the t-stat, solder a connection to the black/blue wire coming off the fan switch and connect it to the old sensor wire, white/green. Then remove the diode that's located in the same area.
The way you suggested doing it, the light would be on all the time, and would (most likely) turn off when the fan came on.

From KTManiac

Order form (outstanding service and prices). Order online and 24 hours later you get the UPS tracking # emailed to about that ?

You want waterproof stuff, so get the marine stuff. Here is what I ordered with parts #'s:

Wiring Kit: 240-023 - $12.19
2 & 1/6 inch 250F Elec Engine Temp Vision VDO Marine gauge: 310-105 - $27.38
Temperature Sender: 250F/120C-1/8 NPT: 323-095 - $7.31

It works. You just loose the idiot light. The stuff looks factory.