Step by Step Ivan Install
Having recently installed an Ivan kit and found the instructions sorely lacking, and
the information on the site somewhat disjointed, I have decided to write an idiot (me)-proof manual.
Any suggestions for editing are welcome. Here goes:
6" 2x4; long #2 Phillips (new, unworn bit, this is important!) driver; long unworn slotted driver; ratchet with 4" extension and 10 mm socket; 8mm open-end wrench; needle-nose pliers; snap ring pliers for those cheap-ass vent hose clamps; a 4" spring loaded alligator clamp ($2 at the home center by the woodworking clamps); 3/8" vacuum plug; 2 3/16" vacuum plugs; 2 3/4" (I.D.) vacuum plugs (available at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store): masking tape: sharpie marker; shop towels; 3' of 3/16" I.D. poly hose; gas can; Black RTV gasket sealer; sharp pointy knife
Note: right and left refer to the bike as it is while sitting on it.
1. Remove Seat.
2. Remove fuel tank. 5 connections. Remove 2 10mm bolts at the back of the tank. Lift the back of the tank a few inches and prop it with the 6" 2x4. Unplug the sending unit harness underneath, the rear vent line will pull loose on its own. There is a second vent line forward on the right side of the tank, remove this and slide it out of the retaining clip on the tank bottom.
At the petcock on the left remove the small vacuum line. Then clamp off the fuel line with the spring clamp, slide back the hose clamp with the needle nose, and slide the fuel line off. If it is a little sticky, use the slotted driver to pry GENTLY between the edge of the line and the petcock fitting to get it broken loose. BE CAREFUL not to damage the line or the fitting. Plug the fuel outlet with the 3/8" plug. Lift the tank off the front rubbers and set AWAY from the work area on a towel to avoid scratching it if something slips later.
3. Remove the airbox side covers. Take out the 10mm bolts on top and slide the covers off the clips.
4. Unhook the throttle cable at the handle bar. Remove the 2 Phillips screws in the switch housing and pull the back off. Don't let the front housing fall off. The first cable you can see on the back side of the throttle tube is the "open" cable. Its cable housing will have a curved fitting on it. Put a piece of tape on it and mark it "O". Pay careful attention to how the throttle assembly "looks" when it's together. Now take the front housing off and remove the cables from the throttle tube.
5. Unhook the choke cable at the carbs. On the right side of the bike, the choke cable is attached to the choke bar on the front of the carbs. Push the choke bar to the left to take the tension off the cable and remove the cable end from the fitting. There should be enough slack to do this without removing the cable housing retainer clip.
6. Remove carbs. There are 2 vent lines going back from between the outer and inner carbs on both sides. Pull the lines off, set them aside. Remove the 2 vacuum lines on the outer carbs. Loosen the clamps on the intake boots (engine side) with the phillips. Use the slotted driver to CAREFULLY roll back the spring clamps on the airbox boots. Unplug the wire harness for the K-TRIC system. It is now battle time. Using a rocking motion, slide the carb bank back out of the intake boots and out the left side of the bike. When it is about halfway out, figure out which cable pulls the throttle open, and tag it. Now unhook both throttle cables. Pull the carbs the rest of the way out. Stuff clean shop towels into the intake boots as a precaution against debris.
7. Put a towel on the bench and set the airbox covers open side up and use them as a base to set the carbs on, with the carbs bottom side down. the covers act nicely as a carb stand if oriented properly.
8. Drain the float bowls of the carbs. There is a nipple on the bottom of each carb. Attach the 3/16" line to each carb in succession with the other end of the line in the gas can, draining the bowl by opening the 3mm allen head drain screw about 5 turns. Unclamp the fuel line while doing this to ensure complete drainage. Hold the end of the fuel line above the float bowls to avoid spillage.
9. Use the Phillips to remove the top covers of the carbs. It's safer to do this one cover at a time. The screws are tight, make sure to align the screwdriver straight and push hard while breaking the screws loose. This is the reason for using a new high-quality screwdriver, and not the 99 cent Chinese one in your wife's laundry room. Stripped screw = Problems.
There is a large spring under the cover, hold or tape it down while removing the screws. Lift the cover off and lift out the spring. Lift out the needle diaphragm assembly (the black boot thing). invert the diaphragm and drop out the stock needle and retainer (the white spider thing). Take a new needle with the desired washer/clip configuration (always 3 washers total per needle) and insert it into the diaphragm, making sure the washers stay in place. This is not difficult, if the washers slip try again. drop the retainer over the needle, making sure the hole in the bottom of the diaphragm is visible between the legs of the retainer. This is also not difficult. Replace the diaphragm and spring, replace cover. Repeat for each carb.
10. Flip the carbs over. They will sit flat on the bench now. Remove the float bowl covers (again, one at a time is safer, same deal with the screws, they are tight). The main jet is the big brass fitting between the halves of the split float. Unscrew the jet with the slotted driver, holding the jet carrier in place (the hex part) with the 8mm wrench. Be CAREFUL not the bang the floats. Replace the main jets as needed (2 smaller jets in outer carbs for slip on, four bigger jets in all carbs for full system). You can also use this opportunity to check the float heights. Plug the vacuum fittings on the #1 and #4 carbs with the 3/16" caps.
11. Adjust the mixture screws as needed (per Ivan or other resource). The mixture (a.k.a. "pilot" or "air" screws) screws are located on the bottom of the carbs in a little "post" shaped protrusion. There is a small plate covering the screws from the factory, which is held in with some adhesive. The plate can be removed by trimming the adhesive with a knife and carefully prying it out. Drilling is inadviseable. There is no need to replace the plate after adjusting the screws.
12. Back on the bike, pull the 3/4" rubber line out of the top of the front face of the airbox. plug the hole with the red plug in the kit, using a LITTLE black RTV on the threads.
13. Take the right battery box side cover off and remove the 90º intake "snorkel" held in with 1 10mm bolt. Put the side cover back on without the snorkel.
14. Remove the battery cover at the bottom of the trunk, then remove the air filter cover (2 phillips screws). Replace the air filter if necessary (stock filter only with Ivan's kit). Drill the air filter cover per Ivan's template. It works better with a new bit. Trim any ragged edges. Replace the filter cover and the battery box cover.
15. On top of the engine, the 3/4" hose from the airbox leads to the dual-diaphragm reed valve case (metal housing about 1 1/2" in diameter). This housing is vented to the valve cover through 2 90º hoses. pull the hoses off the housing (not the valve cover), and remove it. Cap the valve cover hoses with the 3/4" vacuum plugs. The vacuum lines leading to the #1 and #4 carbs will come off with the reed valve housing. Chuck these too.
16. It's now battle time again, in reverse. Roll the air box boots back over themselves, and make sure they are rotated properly, and the edges are seated on the airbox. They have a notch in the lip which mates to the rim of the hole in the airbox, and they can be dislodged during the violence of carb removal. Some like to tape the boots back, and slide the tape out after the carbs are in. In this case you will need some duct tape.
Check to make sure the intake boot clamps are positioned properly (they also have mating notches), and aren't bent. I bent 2 of mine getting the carbs out. If they're bent, take them off and "re-round" them with the pliers.
PULL THE RAGS OUT OF THE INTAKE.
Slide the carbs in halfway, and reinstall the throttle cables, making sure the cables go on the way they came off. Make sure the curved housing ends stay oriented toward the front or the housing will be damaged. Mine got twisted, costing me new cables. Slide the carbs in the rest of the way, make sure they are fully seated in the intake boots, and tighten the intake clamps. Straighten the throttle cables as the carbs go in. Rehook the choke cable, the choke cable housing retainer fitting should be attached with one of the top screws of the carbs. Replug the K-TRIC harness
Remove the tape (if used) and roll the airbox boots over the carbs. The springs can be replaced pretty easily with a screwdriver and rolling them from underneath with your fingers. If this is difficult, a special hooked tool is available.
17. Replace the 2 vent hoses on the plastic fittings between the inner and outer carbs. Replace the airbox side covers.
18. Reinstall the throttle cable and switch housing at the handle bar. This can be tricky, just pay attention to how it comes apart, and put it back together the same way.
19. Replace the fuel tank, make sure to replug the sending unit harness (the gas gauge is so accurate, you know ) , both right side vents, and the petcock vent. Bolt the tank down. Take the plug off the fuel outlet and reinstall the fuel line and slide the hose clamp back. Replace the seat. Put the petcock on PRIME, wait 1 minute. Put the petcock to ON, fire the bike.
These are only procedural instructions, call Ivan for Needle and mixture screw settings, and jet size recommendations for altitude.