Banjo bolt question

[SpceSpff]

I am replacing the stock brakes with some Tokico 4 pots and stainless brake lines. I ditched the "manifold" and I am using two lines, straight to the brakes. I needed a double banjo for the m/c and I read on here the double banjo from the "manifold" will work. I was just assembling the whole system and the double banjo seems to be bottoming out in the m/s about 1/8 from being all the way tightened.

Has anyone used the double banjo I am talking about in such a manner? I am hoping the banjo isn't hitting the m/c piston return spring. A couple extra crush washers do the trick?

Thanks.

[eddie lane]

I am replacing the stock brakes with some Tokico 4 pots and stainless brake lines. I ditched the "manifold" and I am using two lines, straight to the brakes. I needed a double banjo for the m/c and I read on here the double banjo from the "manifold" will work. I was just assembling the whole system and the double banjo seems to be bottoming out in the m/s about 1/8 from being all the way tightened.

Has anyone used the double banjo I am talking about in such a manner? I am hoping the banjo isn't hitting the m/c piston return spring. A couple extra crush washers do the trick?

Thanks.

yes on the extra washers question.

[KWICK]

Different brand and material...steel or aluminum... Banjos are different thicknesses.
You must use the proper length bolt for the application.

Galfer steel and aluminum lines use different length bolts that do not interchange...for example.

If you shim it up with extra washers, you need to be sure the fluid holes line up with the center of the banjos or pressure may not release properly, which can cause a wreck...especially on slippery surfaces.

[SpceSpff]

Thanks. Let's see if I have this right Kwick. Would it be best to put the extra washers between the M/C and the first banjo? That way the holes in the line ends are where they would be on the banjo bolt anyways?

[KWICK]

Look at the locations of the holes in the bolt.
The must be in the centers of the banjos when assembled.

How do you space the banjos? It depends on where the holes are.
Most times you'd need 4-8 half-thickness washers, but those are non-existent.

Read the line, see what brand it is, call the manufacturer to get the correct bolt(s). If they are Galfer, I can help.

[SpceSpff]

They were made to order from http://www.stainlesssteellines.com/

I will have to give them a call.

[KWICK]

They were made to order from http://www.stainlesssteellines.com/

I will have to give them a call.

The ZRX uses 10x 1.25 banjo bolts.
If you are running a Suzuki master or anything Brembo you'll need 10x 1.0

[zrx24]

It's pretty simple to figure out. Just stack the banjo bolts together how you will be mounting them and hold the bolt next to them to see where the holes fall relative to the center of each banjo. Then compare that to where the groove is located on the inside of the banjo and add or remove washers accordingly. As long as the holes in the bolt are not partially obstructed you're good to go. The holes in the bolt don't have to be exactly centered on the groove in the banjo.

[JBoz]

I've been using the splitter double bolt w/ gafler lines, needed 2 crush washers, an extra one under each line at the master.

[RixRex]

It's pretty simple to figure out. Just stack the banjo bolts together how you will be mounting them and hold the bolt next to them to see where the holes fall relative to the center of each banjo. Then compare that to where the groove is located on the inside of the banjo and add or remove washers accordingly. As long as the holes in the bolt are not partially obstructed you're good to go. The holes in the bolt don't have to be exactly centered on the groove in the banjo.

Yep, it's not rocket science

[SpceSpff]

Yep, it's not rocket science

Hey, thanks for that. I am happy for you, that this sort of stuff is easy for you. It isn't for everyone. This is my first time doing something like this.

Anyways. Here is a picture. I got some thicker copper "gaskets" and they solved the problem of the bolt bottoming out in the m/c. But now I am worried about this holes lining up stuff. The bolt enters the threads of the m/c only one way. When I tighten the bolt into the m/c (stock m/c), this is the position of the holes in the bolt relative to the banjos. Red arrow indicates holes in bolt. Now, the bolt will turn a few more degrees when I torque it, but the way you guys are talking, this is no good?

[zrx24]

You need to make sure that the holes in the bolt are located fully within the groove that runs around the inside of the banjo. If you have confirmed that they do, then you're good to go.

[SpceSpff]

OK, that makes sense. It seemed like the idea was to have the holes in the bolt and the banjo fitting looking at each other. But now I understand if the hole in the bolt matches the grooves in the fitting, I'm good to go.

Thanks for the help!

[RixRex]

[QUOTE=SpceSpff;3922320]Hey, thanks for that. I am happy for you, that this sort of stuff is easy for you. It isn't for everyone. This is my first time doing something like this.

Sorry that wasn't directed at you, didn't mean to offend!

[KWICK]

OK, that makes sense. It seemed like the idea was to have the holes in the bolt and the banjo fitting looking at each other. But now I understand if the hole in the bolt matches the grooves in the fitting, I'm good to go.

Thanks for the help!

[SpceSpff]

[QUOTE=RixRex;3922614]

Hey, thanks for that. I am happy for you, that this sort of stuff is easy for you. It isn't for everyone. This is my first time doing something like this.

Sorry that wasn't directed at you, didn't mean to offend!

Ok, thanks for clarifying. Sorry I snapped at you.


Got the system assembled last night. I bled the brakes the ghetto way (plastic tube with one end in a Coors light can) and I was blown away at how easy it went. Lever was firm after less than an hour of tinkering and I kept it pulled to the grip overnight. Went out this morning and I have a rock hard brake lever.

Thanks again for the help, not just in this post, but all the posts I reviewed in the archives.

[Kawi Vandal]

You've started modding. Might as well get a vacuum bleeder to save some time in the future. I bought the 20.00 one from harbor freight and the hardest part now when bleeding the brakes or the clutch is keeping the reservoir topped off while pulling fluid through.