It appears as though I have some runout on a front rotor. Is there a max. allowable amount of runout
on Galfer rotors? Suggestions?
It appears as though I have some runout on a front rotor. Is there a max. allowable amount of runout
on Galfer rotors? Suggestions?
Last edited by Racer Gil; 05-22-2012 at 06:18 PM.
ZRXOA membr #8704
"It is not the strong but the responsive that survive."
BOTM Feb '13
if you can eyeball it I would say it's probably too much. vibe or pads knocked back?
Alan
2000 Kawasaki ZRX 1100
2011 KTM RC8R
2012 BMW S1000rr
The spec would be the same as stock.
That being said, it's pretty hard to get an accurate reading because of all the slots.
When you have tires changed, remove the rotors as they often get tangled in the tire machine and the carrier gets tweaked.
There is a slight vibration upon braking and also a mild noise when the wheel rotates. I remidied the noise from the wheel turning by lubricating the pads and metal retaining bracket. Noise diminished somewhat. Still a vibration while braking.
A member suggested I lubricate the ring on the rotor by where it seems to be having the problem. And tapping it with a rubber mallet to see if it had stopped "floating".Seems kinda logical.
ZRXOA membr #8704
"It is not the strong but the responsive that survive."
BOTM Feb '13
Vibrating while braking lightly is usually time to rebuild the calipers.
It is possible that any lube applied at the rivits (where the rotor is supposed to float) will make its way outward to the braking surface when the wheel gets up to speed. Not good.
I have straitened a few rotors out that have been knocked out of alignment. With the bike up on front and rear stands, I take a piece of chalk and steady my hand against the fork leg. With the other hand, get the wheel spinning and slowly bring the chalk over to the rotor. Even without the chalk you will have a pretty good idea of where the high/low spot is. I take the WOOD handle end of a hammer and give a light smack on the rotor near the rivit that holds it to the carrier. I have also used a 1x1 piece of wood and a hammer and tapped the end of it against the spot. Spin the wheel and check again. What takes the time is applying only enough force to nudge the rotor on the carrier without hurting anything. Many small nudges instead of one big one. One tough one took most of an hour, but it became strait and stopped the pulsing. Most just take a few minutes.
I have realiegned a number of rotors this way. I hope you can get yours strait too.![]()
You'll never know how fast you can go, until you go too fast.
I have discovered that half of being a good rebel is knowing what to rebel against.
2002 ZRX1200R
1981 GPz550
Born to turn
Thanks Cadman, I'll certainly give your technique a try.
Pete, the calipers were rebuilt this Spring with parts supplied from ELS. Thanks, I'll post up how I make out.
ZRXOA membr #8704
"It is not the strong but the responsive that survive."
BOTM Feb '13