How do you remove the ignition advancer bolt?

[Hance]

Just unplug the Ktric and forget about the advancer plate untill next winter when you won't be putting riding time in jeopardy.
Father: "I'm tellin' ya boy... Just Give Up!"

[klickitatal]

I have had good success with the cone-shaped attachment that goes over the end of the propane torch. It has a screwdriver shaped blade that is easy to hold right on the bolt and the heat conducts metal to metal. It is difficult to hold a flame steady enough to apply heat and it dissapates quickly when moved just slightly. There is no damage from the flame either, just 2 or 3 minutes of holding it against the bolt once it is hot and it will bake the loctite dry and loose.
Allen sockets are nice to have as well.

[Hance]

I just noticed in a catalog I was reading that there is a high heat red thread locker compound that is design to work to temperatures above 650 °F . If someone was to smear alot of that on the poor little timing plate bolt it would be very hard to unscrew

[sillyhillbilly]

100 lbs. impact gun won't budge it after the 3rd heat cycle with the tip of a propane torch. I'm attempting to replace the previous owner installed non-advancing ignition advancer with a real one, that's one of the reasons I know the bolt has been removed before. It is amazing how many things the PO screwed up in so few miles. Loose frame bolts and a red loctited ignition advancer. Thanks for nothing!

from mfg web site on how to break the bond



Cleanup
Clean adhesive residue immediately with a damp cloth. Cured product can be removed with a combination of soaking in methylene chloride and mechanical abrasion such as a wire brush. For disassembly, heat parts up to 482°F (250°C) and separate parts while hot.

[davesupreme]

i do some gun stuff where people phukk it up X 10, so....... i usually try to remove WHILE applying heat.... keep the torque up while yer' heating it, and when the heat is right it breaks....keep the heat on it while applying torque.... here you'd probably have to have a big 6 point box end wrench, welders gloves, and another set of hands to aim the propane.... and find some way to lock the rear wheel, the 2x4/2x2 sounds good....

[sillyhillbilly]

i do some gun stuff where people phukk it up X 10, so....... i usually try to remove WHILE applying heat.... keep the torque up while yer' heating it, and when the heat is right it breaks....keep the heat on it while applying torque.... here you'd probably have to have a big 6 point box end wrench, welders gloves, and another set of hands to aim the propane.... and find some way to lock the rear wheel, the 2x4/2x2 sounds good....

actuaslly an air plastic welder is better thaN OPEN FLAME. alot easier to control where the heat goes, less chance of fire, but heat is heat and can melt wires, pulsar pick up, etc.

[davesupreme]

plus propane heat on some oily stuff ain't exactly too good....

[ZRX Mojo]

Well, the Allen head end may come off, but the bolt'll probably still be there

A+ ! Thank Goodness, and KWICK.............