Dave![]()
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Could use more fiber![]()
Dave![]()
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Could use more fiber![]()
Thanks for the compliments and thumbs fellas!it's been a while coming together... haven't had a chance to really get her out for any long rides yet, but from the riding I've done she's really running smooth... I thought having the solid mount bars and footpegs might make for more vibes, but I don't think it's any more than stock...
Oh you gotta paint that sidecover...(I did mine)...
But tits man, just tits...![]()
Hey D![]()
BUT,
That chain guard is Fugly - kills the Ohnishi in one fowl blow![]()
Maybe Black might help but none at all better![]()
Great choice of pipe![]()
Stunning fasteners![]()
PS. Bin those brown covers man , skunk works dude![]()
Dave,
I dug up this thread just to drool all over my 'puter some more. Very, very nice! My style of REX. That is one sweet bike.
Very well executed. Great taste!![]()
ZRXOA Member 7077
CCS Expert #43 Mid-Atlantic Region
WERA Expert #43 Mid-Atlantic Region & Northeast Region
2010 Senior SuperBike MW Novice Mid-Atlantic Champion
2010 Senior SuperBike MW Novice Northeast Champion
Track Day Instructor - Roger Lyle's MotorcycleXcitement
http://www.motorcyclexcitement.com/
His bike is incredible. I always love looking at pics of it.![]()
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How about a Quick Shifter? http://www.danosperformance.com/Kawa...%20Shifter.htm
Also check out this thread: http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthre...=269280&page=2
Thanks Dan
Thanks for the compliments J and D... I do love that bike!
I have to get some new pics of it on here... some more closeup stuff of Paul Kondracki's work and a few new parts... I put a Striker/Arata carbon fiber chain guard on it to satisfy Mr. Drew, and got a set of K-Factory billet passenger foot pegs/mounts (in black), very tasty....
I'm still trying to get my funds together to do my 1224 6-speed build, but I really want to get a donor motor, so I can keep the factory engine tight (just in case)....
Here's a link to another thread on the second-stage of the initial build and some better pics from Steve Long at SpeedWerks in Dover Delaware.
http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=247667
http://picasaweb.google.com/11616554...4SX_oP8-T4iNQ#
Thanks again!
Dave
I did consider it... but figured I'd wait until I do the motor/trans... I actually was looking at one made for carbureted bikes in an old azz Lockhart-Phillips catalog from like 2000 or so (before most bikes went to injection)... it was like a Porsche Tiptronic setup with two buttons on a switch mounted on the left side of the handlebar, just inboard of the horn button.. and it allowed you to either shift manually like normal or use the buttons to up/down shift when you wanted...
I will keep it in mind for when I'm ready to build the motor though...
Thanks for sharing the info..
Last edited by dg1966; 10-28-2011 at 08:31 AM. Reason: edit
Is there a Ti specific anti-seize or will any type do????
Thanks Terry!
Super D, I need to know if you would be willing to share that rear master cylinder setup you have there. I think I am going to have to go another route other than stock on mine now due to this arm.
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ZRXOA Member 7077
CCS Expert #43 Mid-Atlantic Region
WERA Expert #43 Mid-Atlantic Region & Northeast Region
2010 Senior SuperBike MW Novice Mid-Atlantic Champion
2010 Senior SuperBike MW Novice Northeast Champion
Track Day Instructor - Roger Lyle's MotorcycleXcitement
http://www.motorcyclexcitement.com/
Well alrighty then....![]()
Correct on the Blue, if you need holding, it works to seal out the moisture so it won't seize.
Since the I am using pinch bolts in the triples, bolts in the front calipers, a ti front axle and a ti swingarm axle I guess I think I need holding and should use the blue loctite....![]()
There actually is a Ti-specific Loctite type for nuke plants and gov/mil spec applications... It's way expensive though, so I didn't use it.. I can't remember for sure, but I think it was like $80 for the smallest size you could buy (retail)... so I just used blue Kawasaki brand thread lock, or anti-seize called "TiPrep" (like $11 for a big tube of the stuff) that I got from Fred Renz at Yoyodyne.... I have heard that it's not just moisture but even dry locations can experience "cold welding" of Ti to Ti or Ti to other metal threads, but as noted either a thread locker or good Ti-compatible anti-seize is good to stop it by eliminating air/moisture between the threads...
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInf...tid=Anti-Sieze
Last edited by dg1966; 10-31-2011 at 03:38 PM.