Very Pleased With Factory Pro 2.5

[mdmiller98]

I just finished installing the FP 2.5 on my ZRX. The bike is a 2004 with about 15,000 miles. It was stock until this upgrade. I added a Jardine RT-1 bolt on can, part #18-3110-143-02. This is the race version of their bolt-on. It is a straight through design and sounds pretty aggrssive. Next went on the 2.5 kit and the FP 4 degree advance rotor. After the install, the bike runs great. It has been test run twice now for about 15 miles each time. Power is excellent, runs smooth, no flat spots found yet. The temperature was about 50 degrees so I hope it does not richen up when the temps warm up. It needs more test runs, but for now, I am very pleased with this kit. The difference is night and day versus stock. Suggested settings were:

Replace the #35 pilot screw with the included #38
Main Jets are 130's on the outside and 132's on the inside cylinders
Original needles were replaced with the the FP needles
Clips on needles set 3 down from top (middle slot)
2 washers added on top of the clip
Floats set to Kaw spec, at top of bowl
Rear air box removed and add K&N filter
Fuel screws set a 2 turns from bottom

These instructions seem to be right on for this set up. Runs great, sounds great. I think the bike looks better retaining the side covers vs pods. The front end came up when shifting into 3 rd gear as about 6,000 RPM. I even got a 15% discount for the nice people at FP. They answered all e-mails I sent them within a day.

This was simple to do and well worth the money. Unless I can find any bad spots anywhere in the RPM range, I'm letting these settings alone.

[K-rex]

Just wait 'til you get a full system, and jet for that!

[mdmiller98]

I agree a full system would be better, but way more pricy. A full system and jet kit would be near the $1000 mark. I did the bolt-on, 2.5, and the advancer for under $475 wife says, "You spent how much!!"

For now the performance increase feels really good and the kid can still go to college. The bike also seems to be running cooler now. I hear that is good for longevity.

How many more ponies are there for the extra $500 bucks?

[DWReX]

About 35 + ponies.

And you'll lose about 20lbs.

Love my FP 2.5.

Hunt around and you can find a full Muzzy for under $400.

If it looks beat Mother polish and a scotch bright will shine the header up nicely. And use never dull on the can. My Muzzy was beat when I got it. Not anymore!

[SteveinVA]

Not having so much success with mine yet, got a flat spot in the mid range RPMs 3k-7k .........please help

05 1200 with advancer (installed by Previous owner), FP 2.5 airbox cover removed K&N filter, supertrap header with unknown straight through carbon fiber can. 38 pilots, mains are 130 outer 132 inner, stock float height, stock turns on the mixture screws(caps were still installed, but I have removed them incase adjustment is needed) . first had the clips in the 3rd position down with 2 washers on top. Have dropped down to the 4th position w/2 washers on top. that seemed to help a little bit. does that tell me I am going in the right direction?? should I add a washer under?
don't mean to hijack, just need some help
thanks

[SteveinVA]

go here if you wanna see pics
http://zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=208457&page=2

[K-rex]

Not having so much success with mine yet, got a flat spot in the mid range RPMs 3k-7k .........please help

05 1200 with advancer (installed by Previous owner), FP 2.5 airbox cover removed K&N filter, supertrap header with unknown straight through carbon fiber can. 38 pilots, mains are 130 outer 132 inner, stock float height, stock turns on the mixture screws(caps were still installed, but I have removed them incase adjustment is needed) . first had the clips in the 3rd position down with 2 washers on top. Have dropped down to the 4th position w/2 washers on top. that seemed to help a little bit. does that tell me I am going in the right direction?? should I add a washer under?
don't mean to hijack, just need some help
thanks

"Airbox cover removed"? You do mean that you deleted the stock air filter portion of the stock airbox entirely, and installed the single big K&N... right?

Based on my experience (which ain't much -- really no substitute for a dyno with a 'sniffer' )... you're still too small on your mains. Try 138, or 140. (No kidding!)

"Stock float height" -- It really does need to be reset *precisely* at 19mm. That could be a whole lot of your midrange 'flat spot' right there.

Is the third clip position on the needles the center one? I raised 'em a bit... but that doesn't nessecarily mean you'll need to... or that I really needed to...

Stack the third washer on top of the rest. Make sure the little air/vacuum bleed hole on the plastic 'spiders' is unblocked and properly positioned.

Carefully seat your 'mixture' screws, and back 'em out 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns, (or until the popping on decel is lessened/eliminated).

Did you remove your emissions 'spider', and install plugs/block off plates? Did you remember to plug the hole in the front of the forward portion of your airbox? A cork can work well... esp. when held in place by a fillet of superglue.

[SteveinVA]

thanks for the reply/advcie
Airbox cover= got the big K&N and the aluminum adapter sent with the FP kit so.......right.

right now needles are 4 positions down, can't remember if 3rd was in the middle or not

what are these "spiders" you speak of, also forgot to mention when I took the carbs off, the float bowl breather tubes were not connected to anything, and the one on the left(as ridden) had another smaller tube taped to it with a plug in it. I have no idea cause it was something the previous owner did. I am pretty sure (told by beantown) I have a 40 state legal bike. No emissions on it .

So any way ther is a dyno near me that will do a test and tune for 85 bucks. think I might let them figure it out

[K-rex]

thanks for the reply/advcie
Airbox cover= got the big K&N and the aluminum adapter sent with the FP kit so.......right.

right now needles are 4 positions down, can't remember if 3rd was in the middle or not

what are these "spiders" you speak of, also forgot to mention when I took the carbs off, the float bowl breather tubes were not connected to anything, and the one on the left(as ridden) had another smaller tube taped to it with a plug in it. I have no idea cause it was something the previous owner did. I am pretty sure (told by beantown) I have a 40 state legal bike. No emissions on it .

So any way ther is a dyno near me that will do a test and tune for 85 bucks. think I might let them figure it out

Important to start with the needles clipped in the center position. You'll want to get those float heights set perfectly at 19mm before you proceed further, too... pretty darn crucial, actually. You want to start by getting the main jets as close to correct as possible, and then tune from there... just like the pink sheet FP sends with the kit says.

The 'spiders' are the plastic dealies that are below the diaphragm in the tops of your carb's... they go in after the needles/washers... IIRC, only two of the four float bowl breathers 'breathe' -- but I really ought to look at my bike/ the manual to be able to say for sure...

No emissions? No crankcase breather? No hoses coming off little plates on the top of your valve cover?

"Test and Tune" for $85 might mean you get 3 0r 4 dyno runs... in between which you need to yank your carb's/change jets/do your own tuning... which wouldn't be a bad idea, unless the guy is truly qualified to tune your 'rex.

[SteveinVA]

I am gonna have to print this out and get back to you, dont know the answer to some of your questions for sure right now.
When I put the FP stuff in, I followed there instructions to the tee, clip on the third notch down with 2 washers on top. I did not check/adjust float height, and I did not turn the mixture screws. manual said 18.5 was stock height and with out my measuring thing working I wasnt going to mess with them. Anyone know what the stock "turns out" on the mixture screws is?

pretty sure it has a crankcase breather, carbside of airbox remained intact and implace when I pulled my carbs, so i didn't have to remove it.

"No hoses coming off little plates on the top of your valve cover?" nothing that I can remember seeing, where do they go??

And I think I got the mains pretty dialed in, after 6-7K she rips according to them FP pink sheet my mains are good.
Tonight I am gonna check this other stuff you mentioned, than set the floats. and run it, if that doesn't help gonna put a washer under clip, some new plugs too

[K-rex]

I am gonna have to print this out and get back to you, dont know the answer to some of your questions for sure right now.
When I put the FP stuff in, I followed there instructions to the tee, clip on the third notch down with 2 washers on top. I did not check/adjust float height, and I did not turn the mixture screws. manual said 18.5 was stock height and with out my measuring thing working I wasnt going to mess with them. Anyone know what the stock "turns out" on the mixture screws is?

pretty sure it has a crankcase breather, carbside of airbox remained intact and implace when I pulled my carbs, so i didn't have to remove it.

"No hoses coming off little plates on the top of your valve cover?" nothing that I can remember seeing, where do they go??

And I think I got the mains pretty dialed in, after 6-7K she rips according to them FP pink sheet my mains are good.
Tonight I am gonna check this other stuff you mentioned, than set the floats. and run it, if that doesn't help gonna put a washer under clip, some new plugs too

Well, the dyno/sniffer'll be able to verify what direction, if any, you need to go in with your main jets. You may very well have your mains spot-on... (or not). Different pipes/cans/bikes/setups are... different. Still... based on what mine was/wasn't doing, and where I could *still* stand to rejet to, one more time... if I wanted to try to get that 'optimum' A/F ration nailed, dead-on... I'd still have to go richer... and I'm at 136/138 mains on my '01... which is stock engined, except for the FP 2.5, the Hindle4-2-1, and the wide-open can... and the emissions deleted.

Float height is absolutely *key* to your midrange -- half a mm can make a big difference, and they all need to be spot-on. 19mm is where you want 'em! Stock mix screw turns really varies LOTS... as the factory seems to have set 'em purely for emissons readings, and not performance...

The emissions breather 'sucker' hoses on top of your valvecovers go to a valve... and then back to the top front of your airbox.

If you followed the FP instructions as to initital clip position, that's good. You may or may not find that you need to change it after the dyno/sniffer confirms your main jet selection.

New plugs is always a good idea. When was the last time your valves were adjusted?

[SteveinVA]

Don't shoo tme but it is do for atleast a valve check, it is at 8500 miles and one has not been done yet that I know of. I bought it with 6500. PO said it needed one at 7k but I haven't got around to it yet. I guess there was an initial break in period valve adjust/check. Anyway iit was going fine before the installs. So I got home and really the only thing ic ould do tonight and beable to test tonight was raise the needles again. started at 3(middle) went to 4 got a little better now at 5 last notch and is alot better. I am going to do the valve check/adjust and float bowl level check this weekend. I dont have bigger mains to put in right now, so they are going to stay. you would figure for $220 FP could through in a few more main jet sizes. Anyway, thanks for the advice I will take it.
oh yeah plates on valve cover with tube going to airbox is in place. two inner carbs vacuum lines are plugged, one of them has a tube connected to it that is plugged the other has plug over carb nipple. that was what the other tube I said was taped to the carb bowl vent tube.

[beantown]

Steve,
I didn't answer your PM cause Klaus did it for me in this thread! Klaus and I are running the same setup except the filter part, I'll post a pic of what I am running in a second. If you are a the fifth spot on your needles I would say you need bigger main jets, more like I agree with Klaus!!!

With my setup I am running a
Hindle pipe with a Yoshimura RS3 Carbon Fiber can,
132 mains across the board,
Needles fourth clip position from the top
38 pilots,
2 1/4 turns on the mixing screws (I need another 1/4 turn more).
I just dynoed mine at 126.12 SAE hp and am going back to get the A/F done. I am very close on my mains but want the A/F ratio before I go to larger mains. Friggen bike runs awesome, and thanks to Jerry and Klaus for sharing their setup! Here's my filter box mod.

[beantown]

Stack the third washer on top of the rest.

Klaus your needles have three washers on top??

[SteveinVA]

Hey guys, SO in the middle of doing my valve adjustment, I see that my airbox drain tube had come out of the airbox . I am sure this added to my lean problem. So do I go back to position 3 on my needles, and start all over or should I leave them on 5 and see how it is?
thanks

[K-rex]

With my setup I am running a
Hindle pipe with a Yoshimura RS3 Carbon Fiber can,
132 mains across the board,
Needles fourth clip position from the top
38 pilots,
2 1/4 turns on the mixing screws (I need another 1/4 turn more).
I just dynoed mine at 126.12 SAE hp and am going back to get the A/F done. I am very close on my mains but want the A/F ratio before I go to larger mains. Friggen bike runs awesome, and thanks to Jerry and Klaus for sharing their setup! Here's my filter box mod.

Klaus your needles have three washers on top??

I dunno about running non-staggered jetting... and that's quite the airbox mod you've got going there (!)...but no need to thank me -- I'm just learning, myself -- and more importantly: It was all Arlie's (itchy butt)'s doing... in that he found/dibbed me the great deal on the Hindle, and convinced me that the FP 2.5 was the way to go.

FWIW, he was also trying to get me to go with an even larger K&N 'monster' filter setup, that could flow even more... ...of course, that would've likely meant going with yet bigger main jets...

I don't remember right now how many washers I stacked on top; I'll have to check and see what's left in the box, or not...

Hey guys, SO in the middle of doing my valve adjustment, I see that my airbox drain tube had come out of the airbox . I am sure this added to my lean problem. So do I go back to position 3 on my needles, and start all over or should I leave them on 5 and see how it is?
thanks

Nice! When we did my valve adjust, found that the valves nearest the camchain were tight... prolly 'cause they were never done... Stuff a clean shoprag in there, and don't drop any shims! (Just remember to unstuff it before you finish!)

Yep... a half-inch hole in your airbox'll make for a really lean condition. Now is also the perfect time to pull the 'sucker' emissions "octopus" from the top of yor valve cover, and install either the block-off plates, or epoxy in some automotive freeze plugs the cheap method)... I've also heard of someone using dimes... I used a cork to plug the hole in the top front of my airbox, sealed in place by a little fillet of superglue.

I'd start with the needles clipped center position. I'd also get an assortment of bigger jets before I put the carb's back in, and then make an appointment at a dyno with a sniffer, and be prepared to pull carb's to rejet again, as needed.



For the record, I raised my needles by maybe half/ one whole (I forget! ) clip position... but then again, I'm also still a main jet size (or two?) on the lean side of 'optimum' A/F ratio... I did that before I was even close on the jetting, and it had been an (ignorant) attempt on my part to get it to run right...

[wario]

I agree a full system would be better, but way more pricy. A full system and jet kit would be near the $1000 mark. I did the bolt-on, 2.5, and the advancer for under $475 wife says, "You spent how much!!"

For now the performance increase feels really good and the kid can still go to college. The bike also seems to be running cooler now. I hear that is good for longevity.

How many more ponies are there for the extra $500 bucks?

I know where there's a SWEET full system that's a up for sale and it's a STEAL!

http://zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.p...74#post2783174

[Taubi]

Thanks to Jerry Wa for sharing their setup. I finaly set up FP 2.5 for my 2006 1200 R with full Akrapović It is not same but is very similar.

Mains - #135's and #138 s
Pilot - #38
Needles - Clipped in 4 slot
Mix Screws 2-3/4 turns out
Floats set 19 mm

Its amazing how it pull now !!!

[mdmiller98]

Steve

How is the bike running now with the drain tube back in? I guess the valve adjustment is done, right? Did you replace the plugs? Always a good idea.

You asked about factory settings on the fuel screws. As someone noted, they are all set differently from the factory. Mine were set at, from left to right, 2.25, 1.75, 1.25, 1.25 turns out from bottomed. With the FP2.5 kit, I now have them at 2.5 each across the board. The bottom end on the RPM's are better at 2.5 than the suggested 2.0 turns.

I thought the bike felt rich at 2 turns, so I went to 1.5. I was wrong, 1.5 was worse and the bike was "surging" at small throttle settings. Definietly lean at slight throttle riding, I went to the 2.5 turns and all was good.

I would suggest you set the fuel screws at 2 turns each as per the FP directions as a starting point. I would agree with what was stated, at 5 clip positions the mains might be small. But before changing anything, how is it running now?

Also, If you do need larger mains, call Leigh at Factory, I'm sure they can help with larger mains. I would stick with Factory Pro mains, I have heard that different brands of mains are not the same. Do not complicate things any more by using someone elses mains.

Mark

[SteveinVA]

Hey Mark
thanks for asking. Valve job is done, got the tube back in the airbox. Tried it at 4 positions down and it stunk. So not wanting to, I pulled the carbs out again and did everything. set the float heights at 19( they were barely off, probably around 18.5 like the manual says), checked and set my mix screws. Now that was a doozy. I guess when I drilled out the caps/plugs when I previously had the carbs off I contacted the mix screws just enough on carbs 1 and 2 to completely seat the the mix screws??? I barely hit them as I am aware they are brass and are easliy destroyed by drill bits. Dont think I got it with them turned all the way closed, but that is what they were when I went to adjust them to 2.5 turns out. I am sure that also helped my lean condition As of now bike is running good but think I need a couple 138 mains. My settings now are
38 pilots across
132 outer and 135 inner mains
mix screws set at 2.5 turns out
main needles at 4 positions down, 2 washers on top
floats set at 19mm
I got her running good enough right now that I dont want to mess with it until I get it to a dyno and get sniffed, but I am very pleased
I might try Taubi's settings depending on the dyno results.

I got in a short 3 way rollon with my buddies, one on a 09 FZ1, the other on a 06 or 07 bandit 1250S, oh yeah I rolled them both . My buddy on the FZ should smoke me but he is a lil timid right now. Just got the bike about 3 months ago and before that was riding a sportster 1200, Myself and his brother( bandit rider) have successfully brought another over from the darkside. Any who thanks for asking

[Radical]

Steve,
I didn't answer your PM cause Klaus did it for me in this thread! Klaus and I are running the same setup except the filter part, I'll post a pic of what I am running in a second. If you are a the fifth spot on your needles I would say you need bigger main jets, more like I agree with Klaus!!!

With my setup I am running a
Hindle pipe with a Yoshimura RS3 Carbon Fiber can,
132 mains across the board,
Needles fourth clip position from the top
38 pilots,
2 1/4 turns on the mixing screws (I need another 1/4 turn more).
I just dynoed mine at 126.12 SAE hp and am going back to get the A/F done. I am very close on my mains but want the A/F ratio before I go to larger mains. Friggen bike runs awesome, and thanks to Jerry and Klaus for sharing their setup! Here's my filter box mod.


Installed in the bike.

Im considering the F/P 2.5 jet kit. I like this air filter box mod. please elaberate on how you made it..

[SteveinVA]

THe FP 2.5 kit comes with a diferent setup, they give you an aluminum ring you install on the back wall of the box that attaches to the carbs, completely removing the airbox and using a cone shaped filter with cap on one end. if you want the setup above it would be a waste to get the whole kit.