Installing your new centerstand

[chuckc]

First, some things you must not do:

DO NOT use the two small clamp pieces on 1200s. The two small clamp pieces are for 1100s only.

DO NOT use the two small clamp pieces on 1200s. The two small clamp pieces are for 1100s only.

DO NOT bend the cotter pins until you are sure everything works. Just tweak them a little to hold them in place.

DO NOT install the spring until you are sure everything works.

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Tools you'll need:

2 - 7/16" combination wrenches
2 - 1/2" combination wrenches
1 - 9/16" combination wrench
1 - 1/4" hex key (That's an Allen wrench, for those of you in Tennessee.)


Your centerstand was shipped with all the parts assembled just as they will be after it is installed. You'll have to take it apart before you can install it.

Remove one of the cotter pins.

Remove the pivot pin. All of the washers/spacers will fall on the ground, unless you're really quick and you catch them. Crawl around on the floor gathering them up. Note that there are two sizes. The larger ones go outside the mounting bracket. The smaller ones go inside - more on these later. Put them in a neat little pile nearby.

Remove the 5/16-18 socket head cap screw, along with the two hex nuts and two washers. Put them in a neat little pile nearby.

Remove the three 1/4-20 x 2" long hex-head bolts, along with the nuts and washers. Put them in a neat little pile nearby.

Remove the three 5/16-18 hex-head bolts, along with the washers. Put them in a neat little pile nearby.

Set the two clamp blocks next to your little piles of fasteners.

DO NOT use the two small clamp pieces on 1200s. The two small clamp pieces are for 1100s only.

If you have a 1200, put the two small clamp pieces in a box, far away from the work area.

If you have an 1100, put the two small clamp pieces next to the rest of the parts.

Now that you've pretty much messed it all up, it's time to start putting the centerstand on your ZRX.


View from right side of the ZRX, looking forward.




View from left side of the ZRX, looking rearward.

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The clamp pieces shown below are used only on the 1100.


The clamp pieces shown below MUST BE used on the 1100.

Two views of the small clamp piece on the right, and the large clamp piece on the left.

[chuckc]

Getting started.


Insert a 1/4" hex bolt with washer into the right side of the bracket.

Picture shown is for 1200 installation.

If you're installing the centerstand on an 1100, you'll have to put the small clamp piece on the front side of the clamp. Just hang it on the bolt. It might help to add a small piece of tape to hold the small clamp piece in place.


This is what the assembly looks like when it's ready to be put into place.





The locator block fits over the end of the upper rear engine mounting bolt.

The hex bolt goes over the top of the frame cross tube.

You'll have to wiggle this assembly into place. It might appear that it won't go, but once you find the sweet spot it will all go into place easily.

It helps to hold the bracket vertically, as it is in the pic, put the hex bolt over the top of the frame cross tube, then rotate the bracket counter-clockwise, and slip the locator block onto the end of the engine mounting bolt.

You might have a little problem with the chain interfering with the bracket while doing this. Having the chain a little looser than normal will make this easier.

Once you have done that, that mounting bracket will hang in place.

If you're installing the centerstand on an 1100, you'll need to slip the large clamp piece into position on the rear side of the frame cross tube, and in front of the mounting bracket.


Next, hold the large clamp in position, and install one of the 5/16 hex bolts, with a washer.

Now that the hard part is over...


Install the small clamp block, and all of the screws, washers, and hex nuts.

Finger tight!

Wiggle, shake, rattle, and roll the bracket into place. The bracket should be pushed all the way to the right so that the locator block is setting nicely over the end of the engine mounting bolt.

Tighten the three 5/16 hex bolts FIRST.

Tighten the nuts on the three 1/4 hex bolts next. You'll never pull them up tight. The clamp blocks will bend, and the 1/4 hex bolts will bend, if you tighten the nuts too much. Just pull them up until they feel like they're doing their job.


This is what the assembly looks like when it's in place. It helps to remove the engine before beginning.

[chuckc]

Now that you have the mounting bracket in place, it's time to work on the lower section. We have to get it set right, both in the left-right postion, and in the "up" position.


You should begin with the pivot pin, and have one cotter pin installed in it, and one of the big flat washers placed on it, as shown in this pic. (It's all hidden behind the spring. I'll post a better pic later.)




Insert the pivot pin, from the left side, into the bracket so that it protrudes slightly on the inner side of the flange.

Put one small flat washer on the pivot pin.

Hold the lower section in place and push the pivot pin thru, so that the pivot pin sticks out the other side.

Then put 3 of the small flat washers on the pivot pin.

Push the pivot pin thru the right flange of the mounting bracket.


Now for a little test...

Raise the lower section up toward the swingarm. The round stepper arm should be close to, but not touching, the swingarm. You can move the small flat washers to increase or decrease the clearance. It's been my experience that the 1200 uses one small flat washer on the left side, and 3 on the right side. The 1100s are opposite - one small washer on the right side, and three on the left.

Once you have gotten the left-right spacing set you'll need to check the "up" stopping position.

At the bottom center of the mounting bracket there is a black bar (rear side) and three stainless steel spacers, held in place with two short 1/4" hex bolts. The spacers are different thicknesses.

When the lower section is up there should be 1/8" clearance between the lower section and the bottom of the swingarm. Re-arrange the ss spacers as needed.

It helps to remover the lower section when switching the spacers, but you don't need to.

Now that you have your lower section space so it does not hit the swingarm, you can install the right side large washer and cotter pin.

Don't bend the cotter pins yet - you might need to remove them again.


Almost finished! And time for the big test...


Stand on the left side of your ZRX, grab the handlebar with your left hand, grab the passenger handle with your right hand, put your right foot on the stepper, and heave.

The initial force might seem quite high, but as soon as things start moving the forced required drops off quickly.

Be gentle. Practice. If you push down hard and fast on the stepper the ZRX will go up and back in a hurry, and slam into place. No need for that. Slow and controlled is what you want.

Try it a few times.

You don't have the spring installed, so the lower section won't come off the floor, but if you're satisfied that everything is in place and working you can move on to the spring installation.

[chuckc]

Installing the spring.


Looks hard, eh? It's not.


I raise the lower section all the way, then use a bit of masking tape to hold the lower section up.

Hook one end of the spring on the loop on the lower section.

Put one hex nut on the 5/16 bolt.

Put a flat washer on it.

Put the 1/4" hex key into the bolt head.

Put the bolt into the free end of the spring.




Aim the end of the 5/16 bolt at the hole in the side of the mounting bracket.

You can see the tape I used, in this picture.




Ready? Just push the bolt into the hole.






Install the other flat washer and hex nut, and tighten it up.


I sent an extra hex bolt with nuts and washers. If you have to remove the hex bolt and/or spring chances are you will mess up the threads on the bolt. Never hurts to have a spare.


Removing the spring is a real tough chore. The only way I have ever been able to remove the spring is by using the hex key to turn the screw out of the hole in the mounting bracket. Once you have removed the inner nut and flat washer the screw will be pulled crooked in the hole. Just use the wrench to turn the screw out. (That's what messes up the threads.)

[Hogan]